10 Suggestions for Beginning Mushers
Pulling is different than free running. It requires more exertion and puts more stress on paws and joints. Even if your trusted canine companion is backpacking twenty miles with you, start slow in harness and keep the following things in mind.
Pay attention to your dog.
Even the most stoic dog will signal when she is too hot, dehydrated, or has an injury. Look for how far her tongue is out of her mouth, and how long it takes her to stop panting and pull her tongue in her mouth after you stop for a break. Look for poor performance, an odd gait, and/or limping. Check your dogs’ feet, and feel their paws and legs before and after runs so you know what ‘normal’ is and will be able to identify swelling if a dog begins running poorly.
While running, keep the tow line tight to prevent your dogs’ legs getting caught up and watch for a bunched collar or a tangled line that could impact their performance and/or health. Dogs are oppositional; keeping the tug tight will get them to pull harder. It also gives them something to lean into when running down hill.
Don’t run your dogs when it is too hot.
Consider 45 degrees (F) a good starting point, although colder is better. Once a dog overheats, her internal thermometer is permanently broken and her pulling career is drastically limited or over. Learn your dogs’ signals. Even 45 degrees may be too warm for a long run, and you may be able to get in short runs when it’s a little above 45 degrees.
On warmer runs, slow down and give your dog plenty of breaks (about 30 seconds of rest each break) to recuperate during the run.
Heavily coated dogs (Malamutes and Siberian Huskies) should be run in colder temperatures than a shorter coated breed - most of these teams begin when the temperature is below 40 degrees.
Don’t run your dogs on pavement or concrete.
Pavement and concrete are hard on your dogs’ joints because there is no give to the surface, and damages your dogs’ pads more easily when they are pulling. You may end up going short distances over pavement to get where you’re going, but the distance should be less than ¼ a mile.
Dogs that pull on pavement learn to avoid digging in and working hard because it hurts. Select trails that are dirt, gravel or (best of all) snow!
Condition dogs to distance slowly.
Just like people, your dogs won’t be able to go out and run a marathon their first day out. Again, watch your dogs for signs of fatigue and loss of interest. This should be fun for them. As soon as it’s ‘work’, they won’t run as well. Many recreational mushers will begin with 2 miles at the start of the season and repeat this distance in several training sessions before increasing. Alternately, some dogs would run to the end of the earth if left to their own devices, and need their enthusiasm tempered to keep them safe.
Your dogs learn will more quickly from running with other dogs. Take advantage of other club members training their teams and join in when you can. Check out our membership and mentorship page for more information.
Start with a group.
Get the right gear.
Ill-fitting gear can hinder your dogs’ freedom of movement, which can cause injury and limits their pulling power and speed. Always make sure your dog is wearing proper identification before hitting the trails
Not sure where to start with gear? Check out our Equipment Guide.
As for the driver - Wear a helmet, eye protection (the dogs will kick up a lot of sand, gravel, or ice), and gloves. Keep a First Aid Kit (for both you and your dog) in the car and always let someone know where you will be running and when you expect to be back.
Offer lots of fresh, clean water the night before a run to entice your dog to drink plenty.
Going for a long run the next day? Try baiting your dogs’ water. There are products for this, but chicken stock (low/no sodium!) or their regular kibble can work too.
Be sure there is a lot of water available to them after their run as well- figure twice as much as you’d expect.
Keep your dogs hydrated.
If there is food in their stomachs, the organ can twist and cause severe problems and even death. In addition to the risk of bloat, dogs with full stomachs are more interested in looking for a place to poop on the trail than enjoying the run.
Feed your dog 12 hours (or before) prior to running. Bring a light snack for them to eat after the run, but wait until their breathing has returned to normal before feeding. Water first, then snacks!
Don’t run your dogs on a full stomach.
While a young puppy can be placed in harness to practice holding their line out, accustom to how the harness feels, or enjoy a quick walk around the block to learn ‘Gee’ and ‘Haw’ - Young dogs (1.5 years and below) are still developing. Their joints and bones are susceptible to damage. Start young dogs slowly. Allow them to pull for short (1/4 mile) distances at a time only after 6 months of age, and never on pavement! Be especially careful with XL breeds that will weigh more than 50 lbs, as these dogs take the longest to mature and are most susceptible to arthritis.
Training for a puppy should always be fun so they learn to look forward to their harness instead of associating it with discomfort or correction.
Don’t start a dog too young.
Respect your surroundings.
Be a good steward of our sport. We are trail users like everyone else enjoying the day on the mountain. Pay attention to what’s around you- watch for hikers or other trail users. Being aware of your surroundings allows for good preparation and polite sharing of the trails.
Not everyone is excited to be around dogs; other users may be scared of dogs or be unsure of how to share the trail with a dog sled team. You may provide direction to another trail user, such as asking them to leash an off-leash dog, but remember you may be the first dog team they have ever seen.
When not running, keep your dog on leash to prevent any tension with the other teams or spectators. And always clean up after your dog in parking areas and on heavily trafficked trails.